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Baked Mac and Cheese, Southern Soul Food Style (Macaroni Pie)

Baked Mac And Cheese

This is the custard-style baked mac and cheese that anchors Sunday tables across the Black American South, no roux anywhere near it. Beaten eggs, evaporated milk and cream set around hand-grated sharp cheddar and Colby Jack into something rich enough to slice, with browned, slightly crisp edges and a deep golden cheese crust dusted with smoked paprika.
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Prep Time 25 minutes
Cook Time 45 minutes
Total Time 1 hour 20 minutes
Servings: 10 People
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: American
Calories: 560
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 1 lb elbow macaroni
  • 1 tbsp salt for the pasta water
  • 6 tbsp unsalted butter 4 tbsp cubed, 2 tbsp for the dish
  • 1 lb sharp cheddar cheese block, freshly grated; reserve 1.5 cups for the top
  • 8 oz Colby Jack cheese block, freshly grated
  • 6 slices American cheese deli slices, torn
  • 2 cans evaporated milk 12 oz each
  • 1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
  • 2 large eggs beaten
  • 1.5 tsp dry mustard powder
  • 1 tsp garlic powder
  • 1 tsp onion powder
  • 1.5 tsp salt to taste
  • 1 tsp black pepper freshly ground
  • 0.5 tsp smoked paprika for dusting the top

Equipment

  • 1 9x13 inch baking dish ceramic or glass
  • 1 Large pot for boiling the macaroni
  • 1 box grater grate all cheese by hand
  • 1 Large mixing bowl
  • 1 Whisk
  • 1 Colander

Method
 

  1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Butter a 9x13 inch baking dish generously with 2 tablespoons of the butter, corners included.
  2. Grate the sharp cheddar and Colby Jack on the large holes of a box grater and tear the American cheese slices into pieces. Set aside 1.5 cups of the cheddar for the topping. Do not use pre-shredded cheese.
  3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add 1 tablespoon salt, and cook the macaroni 2 minutes less than the package directions, about 5 to 6 minutes. It should still have real bite. Drain well but do not rinse.
  4. Return the hot macaroni to the empty pot, add the 4 tablespoons cubed butter, and stir until it melts and coats every piece. Let it cool for 5 minutes so the eggs will not scramble.
  5. In a large bowl, whisk the evaporated milk, heavy cream, beaten eggs, dry mustard, garlic powder, onion powder, 1.5 teaspoons salt and the black pepper until completely smooth and uniform in color.
  6. Add the buttered macaroni, the Colby Jack, the torn American cheese and all but the reserved cheddar to the custard. Fold gently with a spatula until the pasta is evenly coated. It will look loose and soupy, which is exactly right.
  7. Spread half the mixture into the buttered dish. Scatter 0.5 cup of the reserved cheddar over it, then add the remaining macaroni and smooth the top. Pour any custard left in the bowl over the surface.
  8. Blanket the top with the last 1 cup of reserved cheddar, right to the edges, then dust evenly with the smoked paprika.
  9. Bake uncovered on the middle rack for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is deep golden, the edges bubble and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean rather than milky.
  10. If you want a darker crust, run the dish under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes, watching it constantly.
  11. Rest on the counter for 10 minutes before serving. The custard needs that time to set so each spoonful holds its shape instead of running.

Notes

  • Grate every ounce of cheese yourself. The cellulose and potato starch in pre-shredded bags are the number one cause of grainy, oily mac and cheese.
  • Boil the macaroni 2 minutes shy of the package time. It keeps absorbing custard in the oven and finishes tender, not mushy.
  • Serve it the traditional way, as a side dish: collard greens with smoked turkey, candied yams, fried or baked chicken, potato salad, and cornbread or Parker House rolls.
  • For a firmer Carolina and Caribbean style macaroni pie, use 3 eggs and cut it into squares once fully cooled.
  • Avoid loading in Parmesan or Pecorino. Hard aged cheeses turn the custard gritty and dry.
  • Leftovers keep 4 days covered in the refrigerator. Reheat covered at 325 F with a splash of milk over the top, about 20 minutes.