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Basil Pesto the Old Genoese Way (Pesto alla Genovese)

Basil Pesto

This is basil pesto the way it has been made in Liguria for centuries: young Genovese basil pounded cold in a marble mortar with garlic, pine nuts, two aged cheeses, and grassy Ligurian olive oil. No blender, no heat, no shortcuts. The result is a bright green, coarse-textured sauce with a fragrance that a food processor simply cannot produce.
Prep Time 25 minutes
Total Time 25 minutes
Servings: 6 Servings
Cuisine: Italian
Calories: 285

Ingredients
  

  • 2 cups young Genovese basil leaves loosely packed, small leaves only, stems removed, about 2 oz
  • 3 tbsp Mediterranean pine nuts avoid Chinese pine nuts
  • 2 cloves garlic peeled, green germ removed
  • 0.5 tsp coarse sea salt acts as an abrasive and keeps the basil green
  • 0.5 cup Parmigiano Reggiano aged 30 months, finely grated
  • 3 tbsp Pecorino Fiore Sardo finely grated
  • 0.5 cup Ligurian extra-virgin olive oil Taggiasca if possible; a mild, sweet oil

Equipment

  • 1 marble mortar with wooden pestle roughly 8 inches wide; a food processor bruises the leaves
  • 1 salad spinner or clean kitchen towel for drying the basil
  • 1 fine grater or microplane for the cheeses
  • 1 small glass jar with lid for storing

Method
 

  1. Rinse the basil leaves quickly in cold water, then dry them thoroughly in a salad spinner or by rolling them in a clean kitchen towel. Wet basil will not pound properly and will turn the pesto watery and dark.
  2. Place the peeled garlic cloves and the coarse sea salt in a marble mortar. Using a wooden pestle, crush and grind them with a circular motion against the mortar walls until you have a smooth, creamy paste with no visible garlic chunks, about 1 minute.
  3. Add the pine nuts and continue working them in with the same rotating pressure until they break down into a coarse, oily paste, about 1 to 2 minutes.
  4. Add the basil leaves a small handful at a time. Do not pound downward; instead, press the pestle against the walls of the mortar and rotate, crushing the leaves gently to release their oils without bruising them. Rotate the mortar with your other hand as you work. Continue adding basil in stages until every leaf is worked into a bright green pulp. This takes 5 to 8 minutes and should never feel rushed.
  5. Once the basil is fully broken down and the paste has turned a vivid, uniform green, add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Fiore Sardo. Stir them in gently with the pestle until fully incorporated.
  6. Drizzle the Ligurian extra-virgin olive oil in a thin, steady stream while stirring continuously with the pestle. Work the oil in until the sauce is glossy, creamy, and homogeneous but still shows tiny flecks of basil, nut, and cheese. Do not overwork it into a smooth puree.
  7. Taste and adjust with a pinch more salt if needed. Use immediately at room temperature to dress hot pasta, tossing off the heat and thinning with a spoonful of pasta cooking water if the sauce feels tight. Never place the pesto over a flame.

Notes

  • Serve at room temperature over hot trofie, trenette, or linguine, loosening the pesto with a spoonful of the starchy pasta cooking water just before tossing.
  • For the classic Ligurian pairing, boil small diced potatoes and trimmed green beans in the same pot as the pasta.
  • Use only young, small basil leaves; large mature leaves taste of mint and hay.
  • Store pressed flat in a jar with a thin film of olive oil over the top, refrigerated up to 4 days, or freeze in small portions without the cheese and stir cheese in after thawing.
  • Never heat the sauce; warmth from the pasta is enough.