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authentic Buttery Morel Mushroom Pasta with Shallots and Thyme, the Piedmontese Way

Buttery Morel Mushroom Pasta With Shallots And Thyme

Silky ribbons of fresh tagliatelle cloaked in a glossy emulsion of nutty browned butter, sweet sweated shallots, and earthy morels that have been coaxed to caramelization. A whisper of cream, a pour of dry white wine, and fresh thyme tie it together. This is the dish you make when the first morels appear at the market and you want spring on a fork.
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Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes
Total Time 40 minutes
Servings: 4 People
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian
Calories: 620
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 8 oz fresh morel mushrooms or 1.5 oz dried, rehydrated
  • 12 oz fresh tagliatelle pappardelle also works
  • 6 tbsp unsalted butter divided, cold
  • 3 medium shallots finely minced
  • 2 cloves garlic finely minced
  • 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves plus more for garnish
  • 0.5 cup dry white wine such as Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio
  • 0.25 cup heavy cream
  • 0.75 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano plus more for serving
  • 1 tsp kosher salt plus more for pasta water
  • 0.5 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Equipment

  • 1 Large pot for boiling pasta
  • 1 Large Skillet 12 inch, preferably stainless steel
  • 1 fine mesh strainer
  • 1 Wooden spoon
  • 1 Tongs for transferring pasta
  • 1 Pastry brush for cleaning morels

Method
 

  1. Clean the morels carefully. Halve each one lengthwise and inspect the hollow interior for grit or insects. Brush away debris with a dry pastry brush, or rinse very quickly under cool running water and immediately pat dry on a clean towel. Do not soak them.
  2. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt it generously, about 1 tablespoon per 4 quarts. The water should taste like a mild sea.
  3. Place a 12 inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the butter and let it melt and foam without browning. Add the minced shallots and a pinch of salt. Sweat them gently for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often, until completely translucent and softened but not colored.
  4. Raise the heat to medium and add the halved morels. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring every minute or so, until the morels release their moisture, the moisture cooks off, and the mushrooms begin to caramelize at the edges. Do not rush this step. The morels must be thoroughly cooked through, not rare in the center.
  5. Add the minced garlic and the fresh thyme leaves. Stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.
  6. Pour in the dry white wine and let it bubble vigorously, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Reduce the wine by about three-quarters, until the pan is almost dry, about 2 minutes.
  7. Drop the tagliatelle into the boiling water. Fresh pasta cooks fast, typically 2 to 3 minutes. While it cooks, stir the heavy cream into the morels and let it warm through. Season with the 1 teaspoon kosher salt and the black pepper.
  8. Reserve 1 cup of the starchy pasta water, then lift the tagliatelle directly into the skillet with tongs, letting a little cooking water cling to the strands.
  9. Add 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water to the skillet and toss vigorously over medium heat for about 1 minute, until the sauce coats every ribbon glossily. Add more pasta water a splash at a time if the sauce looks tight.
  10. Remove the skillet from the heat. Cut the remaining 3 tablespoons of cold butter into cubes and toss them into the pasta, swirling and tossing until they melt into a creamy emulsion. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and toss again until silky.
  11. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Transfer to warm shallow bowls, shower with extra Parmigiano-Reggiano and a few fresh thyme leaves, and serve immediately.

Notes

  • Morels MUST be cooked through completely; never serve them raw or rare, as raw morels contain heat-labile toxins.
  • If using dried morels, rehydrate in 1 cup warm water for 20 minutes, then strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter and use it in place of the wine for deeper flavor.
  • Never substitute false morels (Gyromitra); only true Morchella morels are safe.
  • Rinse fresh morels quickly under running water or brush with a dry pastry brush; do not soak, as the honeycomb caps absorb water like sponges.
  • Serve with a glass of dry white wine such as a Jura Savagnin or Chardonnay, crusty country bread, and a simple green salad dressed with vinaigrette.
  • The pasta should finish cooking in the sauce; reserve plenty of starchy pasta water to mount the emulsion.