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Creamy Zucchini Pasta from Nerano (Spaghetti alla Nerano)

Creamy Zucchini Pasta

This Creamy Zucchini Pasta comes from the tiny fishing village of Nerano on the Sorrento Peninsula, where cooks turn a handful of summer squash into something silky and luxurious without a drop of cream. Fried zucchini melts into aged Provolone del Monaco and starchy pasta water, coating each strand of spaghetti in a golden emulsion perfumed with basil. Simple, coastal, unforgettable.
Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 30 minutes
Total Time 50 minutes
Servings: 4 People
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian
Calories: 620

Ingredients
  

  • 1 lb spaghetti bronze-cut if possible
  • 2 lb small firm zucchini sliced into thin rounds about 1/8 inch thick
  • 2 cups extra virgin olive oil for shallow frying
  • 6 oz Provolone del Monaco DOP finely grated, aged
  • 1 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano finely grated, optional for depth
  • 3 tbsp unsalted butter cold, cut into cubes
  • 20 leaves fresh basil plus more for serving
  • 1 tbsp kosher salt for the pasta water
  • 1 tsp freshly cracked black pepper to taste
  • 2 cups starchy pasta cooking water reserved before draining

Equipment

  • 1 large deep skillet for frying zucchini
  • 1 Large pot for boiling pasta
  • 1 wide saute pan for finishing the pasta
  • 1 fine mesh grater for the cheese
  • 1 Slotted spoon
  • 1 paper towel lined plate

Method
 

  1. Wash the zucchini and slice them into thin rounds no thicker than 1/8 inch using a sharp knife or mandoline. Do not salt them.
  2. Pour the olive oil into a large deep skillet and heat over medium-high until the oil shimmers and reaches about 350 F.
  3. Working in batches, fry the zucchini rounds in a single layer until they turn deep golden on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Do not crowd the pan.
  4. Transfer the fried zucchini to a paper towel lined plate with a slotted spoon. Layer them with 10 torn basil leaves and let them rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, or refrigerate overnight for best flavor.
  5. Reserve 3 tablespoons of the flavored frying oil and set aside. Discard or save the rest for another use.
  6. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and add 1 tablespoon kosher salt. Drop in the spaghetti and cook 2 minutes short of the package al dente time, stirring occasionally.
  7. While the pasta cooks, warm the 3 tablespoons reserved zucchini oil in a wide saute pan over medium-low heat. Add about two-thirds of the fried zucchini and gently mash a small portion with the back of a spoon to release their starches.
  8. Scoop out 2 cups of the starchy pasta water and set aside. Drain the spaghetti and immediately transfer it to the pan with the zucchini.
  9. Add 1 cup of the reserved pasta water and the cubed butter. Toss vigorously over low heat for 1 minute until the butter melts into the sauce.
  10. Remove the pan from the heat completely. Wait 30 seconds so the pan cools slightly, then add the grated Provolone del Monaco and Parmigiano-Reggiano in three additions, tossing and stirring energetically after each to mantecare the sauce. Add more pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time if it looks dry.
  11. Keep tossing off the heat until the cheese emulsifies into a silky golden cream that coats every strand of spaghetti. This takes 2 to 3 minutes of steady motion.
  12. Fold in the remaining fried zucchini and season with plenty of freshly cracked black pepper. Taste and adjust salt only if needed, since the cheese is already salty.
  13. Plate immediately in warm shallow bowls, top with the remaining torn basil leaves, and serve at once while the sauce is still glossy.

Notes

  • Fry the zucchini a day ahead and let them rest with basil in the fridge overnight for the deepest flavor.
  • If you cannot find Provolone del Monaco DOP, blend aged caciocavallo with a little Parmigiano-Reggiano as the traditional Campanian substitute.
  • The sauce must be emulsified off the heat, otherwise the cheese will seize into stringy clumps.
  • Use small, firm zucchini no thicker than 1.5 inches for the sweetest flavor.
  • Reserve at least 2 cups of pasta water before draining; you will need more than you think.