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Greek Moussaka (Mousakas), the Athenian Way with Eggplant, Potato and Nutmeg Bechamel

Greek Moussaka

Layers of golden fried eggplant and potato over a thick cinnamon-scented lamb ragu, crowned with an egg-enriched bechamel and sharp kefalotyri. Salting the eggplant and reducing the meat sauce hard are what separate a clean-slicing moussaka from a soupy one. Rest it properly and every square holds its shape on the plate.
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Prep Time 1 hour
Cook Time 1 hour 30 minutes
Total Time 2 hours 50 minutes
Servings: 8 People
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Greek
Calories: 620
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 3 lb eggplant about 3 large, sliced lengthwise 1/3 inch thick
  • 2 tbsp coarse salt for drawing moisture from the eggplant
  • 1.5 lb russet potatoes peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
  • 1.25 cups olive oil divided, for frying
  • 2 lb ground lamb or ground beef, 80/20
  • 2 medium yellow onions finely chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic minced
  • 28 oz canned crushed tomatoes or 2 lb fresh tomatoes, grated
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 0.5 cup dry red wine
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 3 whole cloves removed before assembling
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 tsp salt for the meat sauce, to taste
  • 1 tsp black pepper freshly ground
  • 6 tbsp unsalted butter for the bechamel
  • 0.75 cup all-purpose flour
  • 4 cups whole milk warmed
  • 3 large eggs lightly beaten, at room temperature
  • 0.5 tsp nutmeg freshly grated
  • 2 cups kefalotyri cheese grated, or kefalograviera; divided

Equipment

  • 1 9x13 inch deep baking dish at least 2.5 inches deep
  • 1 large heavy skillet for frying and for the meat sauce
  • 1 Medium saucepan for the bechamel
  • 2 large colander for draining the salted eggplant
  • 1 Whisk
  • 1 sheet pan lined with paper towels for draining fried slices

Method
 

  1. Lay the eggplant slices in colanders, salting each layer generously with the coarse salt. Set the colanders over bowls and leave for 1 hour. The slices will weep a surprising amount of dark liquid.
  2. While the eggplant drains, start the meat sauce. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more.
  3. Add the ground lamb and break it apart with a wooden spoon. Cook until deeply browned and any released liquid has evaporated, about 12 minutes. Do not rush this; browned meat builds the backbone of the sauce.
  4. Stir in the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes until it darkens. Pour in the red wine and scrape the bottom of the pan clean. Let it bubble away almost completely.
  5. Add the crushed tomatoes, cinnamon, whole cloves, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce is genuinely thick and a spoon dragged through it leaves a clear trail. Fish out the cloves and bay leaf. Set aside to cool slightly.
  6. Rinse the eggplant slices under cold water to remove the salt, then press them firmly between clean kitchen towels until quite dry.
  7. Heat 1/3 cup olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the eggplant in batches until golden on both sides, about 3 minutes per side, adding more oil as needed. Drain on paper towels.
  8. Pat the potato slices completely dry and fry them in the same skillet until golden and just tender, about 4 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and season lightly with salt.
  9. Preheat the oven to 350 F.
  10. Make the bechamel. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat, whisk in the flour and cook 2 minutes without letting it color. Pour in the warm milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly, and cook until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes.
  11. Remove the bechamel from the heat and whisk in the nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 cup of the grated kefalotyri. Let it cool for 5 minutes, then whisk in the beaten eggs in a steady stream, working fast so they enrich rather than scramble.
  12. Assemble. Oil the baking dish and lay the fried potatoes across the bottom in an overlapping layer. Cover with half the eggplant slices, then spread all the meat sauce evenly over the top.
  13. Arrange the remaining eggplant over the meat, pressing gently to level the surface. Pour the bechamel over the whole thing and smooth it to the edges with a spatula. Scatter the remaining 1 cup of cheese across the top.
  14. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the top is puffed, deep golden and set in the center. If it browns too fast, tent loosely with foil.
  15. Rest the moussaka 20 minutes out of the oven before cutting. This is not optional; it is what lets the layers set so each square lifts out intact.

Notes

  • Salt the eggplant for a full hour. Rushing this step is the number one cause of oily, bitter slices.
  • The meat sauce should hold a clean line when you drag a spoon through it. If it is loose, keep reducing.
  • Rest 20 minutes minimum before cutting. Cold moussaka reheats beautifully and slices even better the next day.
  • Serve with a horiatiki salad of tomato, cucumber, olives and feta, some crusty bread or warm pita, and a glass of Greek red.
  • No kefalotyri? Pecorino Romano is the closest widely available substitute.
  • Southern Greek households often skip the potato layer entirely. Leave it out if you want the eggplant and bechamel to dominate.