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Pasta all'Assassina from Bari, the Old Sartàscene Way

Pasta All'Assassina

This is the killer pasta of Bari, cooked entirely in a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet without ever touching a pot of boiling water. Dry spaghetti toasts directly against the iron while a fiery tomato broth is ladled in spoon by spoon, risotto-style. The strands soak, stick, and char, building a crackling crust that tastes of caramelized tomato, garlic, and chili. Brutal, smoky, unforgettable.
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Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 25 minutes
Total Time 35 minutes
Servings: 2 People
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian
Calories: 620
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 8 oz dry spaghetti smooth, teflon-extruded; do not use bronze-cut
  • 3 cups hot water for the tomato broth
  • 1.5 cups tomato passata
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste concentrato di pomodoro
  • 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic peeled and lightly crushed
  • 2 fresh red chili peppers or 1 tsp dried peperoncino flakes
  • 1 tsp fine sea salt or to taste

Equipment

  • 1 heavy cast-iron skillet, 12 inch the traditional sartàscene
  • 1 Medium saucepan for the tomato broth
  • 1 Ladle
  • 1 pair of tongs

Method
 

  1. In a medium saucepan, whisk the tomato passata and tomato paste into the hot water along with the salt. Set over low heat and keep it just below a simmer. This is your broth — it must stay hot the entire time you cook the pasta.
  2. Place the cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and add the olive oil, crushed garlic cloves, and chili peppers. Let them sizzle for about 1 minute until fragrant but not browned.
  3. Ladle in about 1 cup of the hot tomato broth. It will hiss and bubble aggressively. Let it spread evenly across the skillet.
  4. Lay the dry spaghetti flat into the skillet, like logs across the tomato broth. Do not stir or break the strands. Press them gently into the liquid with tongs so they begin to soften and bend.
  5. As the strands soften, fan them out in a single layer across the pan. Let them sit undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes so the bottoms toast against the iron. You should hear a continuous crackle.
  6. Flip the pasta with tongs in sections, exposing the toasted side. Let the new side sear for another 2 minutes.
  7. Ladle in another half cup of hot tomato broth. Let the spaghetti drink it in without stirring much. Continue this risottata method: sear, add broth, sear again.
  8. Repeat the process for 15 to 18 minutes total, adding broth every couple of minutes as the pan dries out. Allow the strands to stick and char in spots — those black flecks are the soul of the dish.
  9. Taste a strand. It should be al dente with a smoky, almost burnt edge and a thick, clinging tomato glaze. If still firm, add one more small ladle of broth and cook 2 minutes more.
  10. Drag the spaghetti into a tight nest with the tongs, press it against the hot iron one last time for 30 seconds to crisp the bottom, then slide directly onto warm plates. Eat immediately while the crust still crackles.

Notes

  • Use smooth, teflon-extruded spaghetti, not bronze-cut. Bronze-cut releases too much starch and prevents the signature charring.
  • A heavy cast-iron skillet (the Barese sartàscene) is non-negotiable. Nonstick pans cannot produce the crust.
  • You want char, not bitter burn. If the pan starts to smell acrid, add the next ladle of broth immediately.
  • Serve with a glass of Apulian Primitivo or Negroamaro and a piece of crusty bread to wipe the skillet clean.
  • Resist the urge to add parmesan or pecorino. The Accademia dell'Assassina considers cheese inauthentic for this dish.