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Spinach Ricotta Stuffed Shells from Campania (Conchiglioni Ripieni di Ricotta e Spinaci)

Spinach Ricotta Stuffed Shells

Jumbo conchiglioni filled with fresh whole-milk ricotta, bone-dry spinach, Parmigiano and nutmeg, then baked between a garlicky passata and a silky béchamel the way it is done in Campania. The shells come out of the oven bubbling, with a lightly browned crust on top and a filling that stays creamy rather than watery. Rich, old-fashioned and far easier than it looks.
Prep Time 40 minutes
Cook Time 35 minutes
Total Time 1 hour 15 minutes
Servings: 6 People
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian
Calories: 610

Ingredients
  

  • 10 oz conchiglioni jumbo dried pasta shells, about 30 shells, ideally pasta di Gragnano IGP
  • 1.5 lb fresh spinach stems removed, washed
  • 16 oz fresh whole-milk ricotta drained if loose
  • 1 large egg to bind the filling
  • 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano divided
  • 0.25 tsp freshly grated nutmeg plus a pinch for the bechamel
  • 1.5 tsp salt plus more for the pasta water, to taste
  • 0.5 tsp black pepper freshly ground
  • 3 cups tomato passata strained tomato puree
  • 2 cloves garlic lightly crushed
  • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 tbsp unsalted butter for the bechamel
  • 3 tbsp all-purpose flour for the bechamel
  • 2 cups whole milk warmed
  • 6 oz fior di latte mozzarella or low-moisture mozzarella, torn or cut into small pieces
  • 6 leaves fresh basil torn

Equipment

  • 1 Large pot for boiling pasta
  • 1 lidded saucepan for wilting spinach
  • 1 Medium saucepan for bechamel
  • 1 Small saucepan for tomato sauce
  • 1 9x13 inch baking dish
  • 1 fine mesh sieve for draining ricotta and spinach
  • 1 Whisk
  • 1 Baking sheet to cool the shells in a single layer

Method
 

  1. Wilt the spinach first. Put the washed spinach in a large lidded saucepan with 2 tablespoons water, cover, and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes, turning it once with tongs, until fully collapsed. Tip it into a sieve and leave until cool enough to handle.
  2. Squeeze the spinach in handfuls, pressing hard between your palms until almost no liquid comes out and each handful is a tight dry ball. You should end up with about 1 cup. Chop it finely and set aside. Do not skip or rush this step, as wet spinach is what makes the bake watery.
  3. Make the tomato sauce. Warm the olive oil with the crushed garlic in a small saucepan over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, until fragrant but not browned. Add the passata and 0.5 teaspoon salt, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook uncovered for 15 minutes. Discard the garlic and stir in the torn basil.
  4. Make the bechamel. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat, whisk in the flour, and cook for 1 minute until it smells faintly nutty. Pour in the warm milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes until it thickly coats a spoon. Season with 0.5 teaspoon salt and a pinch of nutmeg, then cover with the lid to keep it loose.
  5. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the conchiglioni 3 minutes short of al dente, usually 8 to 9 minutes, so they are still firm. Drain gently, rinse briefly under cool water, and spread them out on a baking sheet in a single layer so they do not stick or tear.
  6. Preheat the oven to 375 F.
  7. Mix the filling. In a bowl, combine the ricotta, chopped spinach, egg, 0.75 cup of the Parmigiano Reggiano, 0.25 teaspoon nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt and the black pepper. Stir until smooth and well seasoned. Taste it now, as it should be assertive.
  8. Spread about 1 cup of the tomato sauce over the bottom of the 9x13 inch baking dish. Spoon or pipe the filling into each shell, about 1.5 tablespoons each, and set them open-side up in a single snug layer.
  9. Spoon the remaining tomato sauce over and between the shells, then drizzle the bechamel over the top in wide ribbons. Scatter over the mozzarella and the remaining 0.25 cup Parmigiano Reggiano.
  10. Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Uncover and bake another 12 to 15 minutes, until the top is browned in patches and the sauce bubbles at the edges.
  11. Rest the dish 5 to 10 minutes before serving so the filling sets and the shells lift out cleanly.

Notes

  • Squeeze the spinach until it is almost dry and sitting in a tight ball. This one step decides whether the bake is creamy or soupy.
  • If your ricotta looks loose, drain it in a fine sieve over a bowl in the fridge for 2 to 3 hours or overnight.
  • Pull the shells from the water 3 minutes before the package says al dente. Fully cooked shells tear when stuffed and turn mushy in the oven.
  • A zip-top bag with a corner snipped off makes a fast piping bag for the filling.
  • Serve it as a first course followed by a simple roast, or as a main with a green salad, crusty bread, extra grated Parmigiano Reggiano at the table and a glass of Campanian Aglianico.
  • Assemble up to a day ahead, refrigerate covered, and add 10 minutes to the covered baking time.
  • Leftovers keep 3 days refrigerated and reheat best covered at 325 F. Freeze unbaked for up to 2 months.