Make-ahead: cover the assembled pan and refrigerate up to 12 hours. Let it sit on the counter 20 minutes before baking and add 5 to 8 minutes to the bake time.
Whisk the custard until it is completely uniform in color. Under-whisked eggs leave rubbery streaks through the finished bake.
Do not raise the oven above 350 F. A hotter oven browns the top before the center sets, and that is the real cause of a soggy middle.
Serve alongside fresh berries or a fruit salad, breakfast sausage, and plenty of hot coffee.
Leftovers keep covered in the refrigerator for 3 days. Reheat individual portions 30 seconds in the microwave.
Day-old baked cinnamon rolls work beautifully here and actually absorb the custard better than fresh dough.